Today's Edition
SARA ALZAABI (ABU DHABI)
Sorbonne University Abu Dhabi (SUAD), in collaboration with the National Library and Archives, the Observatoire des patrimoines de l'Alliance Sorbonne Université and Dubai Culture, is hosting the cultural exhibition "Threads of Heritage: Emirati Women's Traditional Fashion and Jewellery."
The exhibition, running until May 3, is part of the UAE's 2025 Year of Community initiative and traces the development of women's clothing, including garments and accessories.
Developed by Dr. Christophe Moulherat, Associate Professor in the History of Art & Archaeology Department and textiles expert, the exhibition is a collaborative effort with archaeologists, heritage scholars and literary experts.
He told Aletihad the idea was sparked by a master's student passionate about Emirati heritage, focusing on how key moments -like the formation of the UAE - shaped women's fashion in the 20th century.
"The dresses have always been vibrant," he said. "We saw strong influences from India, Persia, and others - but a distinct Emirati style has existed since the 19th century."
The exhibit features garments loaned by students and families, including a dress and painting by Emirati artist Khulood Al Jabri, reflecting the deep link between style and socio-economic change.
Dr. Moulherat noted that although the Abaya and Kandora predate the union, they became national symbols post-unification.
Despite global influences, tradition endures. "Today's dresses are not far from those worn 40 or 50 years ago," he said.
Poetry and literature also enrich the exhibition, offering a deeper cultural perspective.
"Every poem about women mentions the beauty of their dress."
For Dr. Moulherat, said the project is more than just academic.
"It is about identity, memory, and continuity. The students do not just love the exhibition - they love the way of life it represents. It is a bridge between tradition and modernity."
Among the highlights of the exhibition is a rare dress loaned by Emirati artist Khulood Al Jabri, gifted to her by a Sheikha.
"This piece is precious to me," she said to Aletihad. "I have had it for over 35 years and worn it only twice."
Woven with fine gold thread, the dress is a popular style across the Gulf.
In the 1980s, she began designing unique dresses blending traditional Talli with pharaonic influences.
"I shaped the Talli into a semi-circle, merging Gulf and Arab fashion, while keeping it modest," she said.
Talli, the traditional Emirati art of braiding colourful threads into decorative patterns, has long adorned women's clothing, adding flair to everything from wedding gowns to everyday dresses.
Shaima Al Ali, a History of Art and Archaeology student at SUAD, spoke of the evolution of Emirati fashion and jewellery in the 20th century, explaining how simple garments gradually became more elaborate.
"With improving living conditions, clothing and jewelry became more luxurious," she explained.
The exhibition highlights women's roles in society and the cultural influences woven into Emirati heritage, she said, adding: "It is not just about fashion, it is about preserving identity."
