Today's Edition
RAJEEV CHERIAN (AL DHAFRA)
Al Dhafra - the heartland of Abu Dhabi covering 70% of the emirate - is a wellspring of history and heritage where dynamic geography and shifting weather patterns have shaped culture, nature, and way of life.
Stretching from the coast of the Arabian Gulf to the northeastern end of Rub’ al Khali (the Empty Quarter), this landscape of desert, oases, and islands has seen shifts between wet and dry climates - changes that have influenced how communities lived and adapted over the years.
A visit to Al Dhafra Fort, which also serves as a museum, some 160km southwest of Abu Dhabi, opens a cultural gateway to the region. Several exhibits on display tell stories of how its islands and sceneries were formed, how it became a sanctuary of flora and fauna, and how the emirate’s ancestral tribes thrived in its environment packed with natural treasures.
A Dynamic Ecosystem
Fossils and archaeological evidence show that over millions of years, Al Dhafra’s climate has alternated between wet and dry periods, creating various environments where generations of different plants and animals flourished. This explains why the region has become home to some of the rarest species in the UAE.
“During the Miocene around 23 to 5 million years ago, the animals include sabre-toothed cats, hippopotamus, crocodiles, giraffes, antelopes, and an extinct species of elephant,” the museum said.
Inside the museum, one of the standout attractions that captures visitors’ attention is the exhibit of now-extinct four-tusked elephants called Stegotetrabelodon emiratus, which were first discovered in the UAE.
“Around 7 million years ago, herds of four-tusked elephants called Stegotetrabelodon left their footprints in the wet earth at Mleisa in Al Dhafra. Some of their tracks extend for almost 270 metres.
“They had already evolved behaviour to the present-day elephant. Females and children live in herds while adult males are solitary,” read the description at the site.
The Stegotetrabelodon - a model of which is on display at the museum - had two upper and two lower tusks and were larger than elephants today.
It was about 120,000 years ago when humans were believed to have started inhabiting Al Dhafra.
“Since then, the climate has continued to fluctuate, and the people, plants and animals have developed ways to adapt.”
Due to Al Dhafra’s dynamic ecosystem, desert plants show adaptations to the dry climate. Ghaf trees develop roots that reach a depth of 30 metres to reach water deep underground.
“Al Dhafra is home to some of the rarest species of animals in the UAE. Many are active at night, and have lighter skins and smaller bodies, which makes it easier for them to cool down,” reads an inscription at the museum.
Marine life also thrived in the warm shallow waters between the islands of Al Dhafra. The Arabian Gulf is home to the world’s second largest population of dugongs also known as sea cows.
Al Dhafra is home to a range of marine and terrestrial ecosystems, including coral reefs, mangrove forest, and sand dunes. It also provides habitats for vulnerable species such as the Arabian leopard, Arabian oryx, green turtle and dugongs.
The UAE’s Founding Father, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, showed a keen interest in environmental conservation and founded the first nature reserve in Abu Dhabi in 1971 on the island of Sir Bani Yas. Another highlight is the Sheikh Zayed Protected areas network, which has offered safe havens for wildlife at 19 reserves since 2018.
Early Settlements
Among the earlier forms of human activity is recorded in Al Dhafra’s Jebel Barakah.
In several areas of Jebel Barakah, pieces of deliberately shaped flint stones have been discovered - evidence that it was a site where flint tools were made some 125,000 years ago during the Palaeolithic period, according to information displayed at Al Dhafra Fort.
Centuries later, during the Neolithic period (8000-3000 BCE), there is evidence of both settled and nomadic communities in the area.
By the 16th century CE, there emerged historical references to the Bani Yas tribe, the founders of the emirate of Abu Dhabi, living in Al Dhafra.
In the south of Al Dhafra lies the Liwa Oasis where groundwater has nourished a crescent-shaped series of palm groves and villages covering an area of 80km.
Liwa was the first centre of the Bani Yas tribe who founded Abu Dhabi in early 1760s. The region is also home to many restored forts and watchtowers, offering a glimpse into community life in the settlements.
Distinctive Geography
Salt formations are a major part of the landscape of Al Dhafra. They are formed when salt trapped underground rises under pressure from the rock above.
The islands of Delma, Sir Bani Yas, Zirku, Qarnain and Arzana and Dhanna on the mainland are all salt domes, according to information displayed at the museum.
Another distinctive geographical feature of the region is the sabkha, or salt flats, formed through evaporation. Al Dhafra’s Sabkha Matti is regarded as the largest expanse of salt flat in the Arabian Peninsula, complementing the extensive sabkha that makes up much of the region’s coast.
“Although they look barren, they are full of life, bacteria called halophiles that can survive in high concentration of salt life under the surface. Like plants, they convert carbon dioxide to oxygen. Sabkha could be called the ‘lungs of the UAE’,” according to the museum’s information board.
Energy Powerhouse
Rich in fossil fuels, Al Dhafra is also where the majority of the oil and gas reserves in the UAE are found.
In 1958, oil was discovered in commercial quantities in this region. Al Dhafra then became a major energy producer since the first oil exports in the 1960s.
With the UAE now moving towards a carbon-free future, alternative energy sources have been developed in the region - the most notable of which is the Barakah Nuclear Energy Plant near Ruwais.
The first in the Arab world, the historic Barakah plant pumps out clean energy that contributes up to 25% of the UAE's electricity requirements.
The Shams 1 Concentrated Solar Plant near Madinat Zayed is another example in this direction. The plant, which opened in 2013, can now power as many as 20,000 homes.
To further address the impact of climate change, Abu Dhabi built a strategic water reserve in Al Dhafra in 2018, where desalinated water has been stored underground, enough to last the emirate 90 days.
A Rising Tourism Hub
The region mainly consists of seven towns: Al Dhannah City, Delma, Ghayathi, Liwa, Madinat Zayed, Mirfa, and Sila. Among these, some are older settlements, while others were built after the foundation of the UAE.
The inhabitants of the region - many of them of Bedouin origin - primarily live off farming, fishing, energy, and manufacturing.
Many of the region’s residents are now venturing into tourism, too, since Al Dhafra is increasingly becoming a favourite destination for adventures and holidays.
Hotels and resorts have cropped up, offering serene beach and desert escapades.
From desert adventures to heritage sports to wildlife exploration and stargazing, the region offers a wide range of activities built around its diverse natural and cultural attractions.
